Home Link Building Tools CLIMBING TOOLS: Taking in coils

CLIMBING TOOLS: Taking in coils

CLIMBING TOOLS: Taking in coils

As the terrain changes in the mountains you will often have to change rope lengths to max out your safety. It is common to travel a good distance apart on a glacier or use large amounts of rope when dealing with technical terrain. However when traveling together on a ridge it is often safer and faster for both climbers to take in a few coils. THE COMPANY OF CANADIAN MOUNTAIN GUIDES 1 403 760 5731 Located in Banff, Canada

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25 Comments  comments 

25 Responses

  1. nickk1282

    Really helpful.? Thanks for making these videos.

  2. outdoorcrazy

    Thanks for the quick reply.

    So why not use this method all the time? Seems like this would completely replace tying in with a fishermans and storing your rope in your pack using a? lap coil.

  3. mikebarter387

    This I would use when changeing rope lenghts often. An example would be coming off a glacier then walking on a exposed ridge. When I? am short roping clients or freinds and I need them close to me but can’t be hanging onto a bunch of coils. Moving together then suddenly I hit a short technical section I can drop coils place gear belay second up then quickly take in coils and keep moveing. It is a real handy tool and worth knowing.

  4. outdoorcrazy

    Mike,? in what situations do you use this method versus tying in using a fishermans on a bite and using a lap coil and storing them in your pack?

  5. Ilovewinter

    Thank you this has really helped me refresh after 10 plus years of being away from this was in my teens back then, now? I am 28 almost 29, and I have felt the call of the Mountains again. This time I am serious about it, and I would like to make a push to do Everest, but my dream is really K2 I love to climb, did a local Mtn. no ropes or gear, should have had my axe but either way being on 75 degree slopes in just my boots was enough I made summit. but will take an axe and rope next time.

  6. mikebarter387

    I have a couple old ropes that I use to short rope with that are suppose to be 11mm but feel more like 12.5 mm. I am talking about thickness in the terms og feel in my hand. I doubt that I would be technically climbing with a 30m rope. Maybe just never have.??
    Of course thicker ropes are safer of sharp edges and such. I change ropes for the job at hand so I don’t have one answer.

  7. mikebarter387

    Sorry buy I do not recommend teaching new climbers to clip and unclip from? the rope or to be landing on biners.
    I personally stopped using a daisy chain about 20 years ago. When tied to the rope correctly it is a piece of equipment that has a lot more options. If I need to clip in otherwise a simple double lenght sling girth hitched to my belay loop is all I use these days. If what your doing works for you fine but it certianly is not the norm in this area or anywhere else I’ve been.

  8. mikebarter387

    Must be a regional thing. If I have a first timer on a multi-route that means I have plenty of time. I will often assign clients or? friend a task while I grab gear off their harness and rerack. During which time explain whats coming and what to expect.
    I have climbed the longest ice routes in the world and never found a need for this procedure that you are describing. But that may just be me.

  9. acrazedmaniac

    Are you talking about the feel of the rope (hand), or the safety of a thicker rope..cut resistance, and wear? i used to only climb w/ 11mm, now 10.5 or 10. on big walls, nothing beats a 11mm, esp. when? raping over, over hangs and sharp rocks.
    now days..thats “old school” im told…im old! never been hurt climbing, and 55 trips around the sun now! have seen about 500+ climbing days, and 20+ new routes. or over 150 new pitches…full 150m. pitches. not that much, but mostly on a 11mm rope,50m long

  10. acrazedmaniac

    usually changing leads. last in , first out. very handy and much faster then. and when guiding, OR taking someone for their first ever, very handy, cause they are dealing with so much at first, tieing a fig 8 in your face is much easier to do right, staying in w/your daisy backup as you change rope ends,asin hanging belays! an emergency, or someones screw up. much easier to get em out and onto something else. If extra links are a? problem,it is usually only one link (biner)that saves your fall.

  11. mikebarter387

    no disadvantage. It pulls on teh harness same as the prussik would? or the rope end that you are tied into.

  12. mikebarter387

    Absel loop? only

  13. mikebarter387


  14. mikebarter387

    Depends on what your doing with theh rope. what are you doing with a 30m 8 mil. Not technically climbing. I may have at times used such a rope to control clients but even? then I usually carry a extra thick rope cause it just feels better in my hand. Not enough info to give you much of a answer
    The Mike

  15. mikebarter387

    Honestly I don’t know why you would do that. Yes you explained but I don’t understand the need. If it works for you thats good. maybe you should examine why your changing ropes so? much that you have to do this. I’m assuming your a casual climber and not a guide. I also do not like to add links to the system if not required.
    The Mike

  16. acrazedmaniac

    i always tie my harness to the rope with a locking biner..esp. ice climbing. Much faster to change ropes, or? manage (aka in and out)..esp. when it drops temp. and everything goes solid. Ya, i know…i have a ‘special’ harness biner.

  17. kammernator

    thanks for the video- I like the slow-mo, the clarity of the video, and the reasons for coiling? in.

  18. icejunki

    JUST A QUESTION FOR YOU: If I’m on a trip that doesn’t include glacier? travel but a rope is necessary, how do you feel about a 30 meter 8mm rope (like the Edelweiss Discover sold at REI)?

  19. icejunki

    Thanks for mentioning that when you arrive at tying the overhand at? the end that you next tighten it all up so the weight is on your harness. Other methods I’ve seen like in Freedom Of the Hills leave the coils loose and a figure eight loose followed by using prussiks. I didn’t have a preference until I attempted to replicate several methods and realized that your methods is the cleanest, more comfortable method especially when the coils are well wrapped and the slack is snugged at the end.

  20. mikebarter387

    abseil? loop

  21. AdventureTells

    Excellent video.. I agree that an overhand? knot would be most suitable..
    Just one thing..
    When tying off the coils, should you run the bite through the abseil loop on the harness? or the rope loop? Or both? Cheers..

  22. mikebarter387

    If notice how it is tyed off you will see that? when the second falls it pulls from the harness not the coils. Sort of the point of the video is to demo a safe easy way to shorten up the rope. This I think is better and faster then putting prusiiks off and on.

  23. haourss

    Good stuff. One? question; Has this method any disadvantages if the second climber falls? Some leaders use prussik knot in order to carry the load on their harness and prevent the coil to pull them of balance if the second falls. What´s your opinion on that?

  24. rarbiart

    How many times do you repeat this? statement? Sounds a bit like a disfunctional record.

  25. mchilds83

    Great video, this by far beats waiting months for? the next mountain education course.